Travel with Hafeez - Vietnam

I hate night flights. But I have no choice. Most international flights leave Karachi, Pakistan at about mid-night. I salute residents living under the Heathrow, London flight-path who are constantly fighting for a ban on night flights.

My flight to Vietnam was on 00.25 a.m. on 28th June 2009. I remained confused for quite sometime whether I was leaving on 27th or 28th. But I was still better off than my email friend, Sondra Jenkins, who suffered from Alzheimer and often didn’t know whether she was going to the market or coming out of it.

With one stopover at Bangkok, I reached Tan Son Nhat International Airport, Ho Chi Minh City at 10:30 a.m. Immigration formalities were brief and soon I was looking for “Hotel & Transport” counters. I found one and was able to book Lucky Hotel in the downtown area for $20 per night. Coughing another US$6, I got a taxi which dropped me at the hotel. However, I noticed that the room, reserved for me was windowless, though air-conditioned, and asked for something better. Just paying an additional US$5, I got a spacious room overlooking a busy ‘Ton That Thiep’ Street. Initially, I became worried about noise but at night, it was very calm and quiet and I slept well.

Next morning, when I entered the lounge for breakfast, I ran into some Japanese Tourists. One casually asked me what my program was for the day. When I said none, I was asked me to join them for a visit to Cu Chi Tunnels. If so many Japanese were heading toward the tunnels, it must be a good spot. I paid to the hotel $8 and joined the crowd defying conventional wisdom that "Only dead fish go with the flow".

The local currency was Dong, (VND) in a minimum denomination of 500 reaching to 500,000. The ongoing rate of one US$ = 18,400 VND. The banks, money changers and even hotel staff could freely exchange $ into VND or vice versa. One had to be cautious when dispensing money as all notes mostly look alike.

The tourist bus took about two hours to reach the tunnels. It was a maze of interlinked underground passages built in the Vietnam War. These tunnels were so narrow that anyone who went in could not turn back. Only one meter high, one could bend or crawl, no other way. The guide explained in details, often using charts and pictures, the complex containing supply routes, kitchens, hospitals, weapon caches and living quarters of guerrilla fighters. The tunnels had three level, the lowest being 8 meters deep to avoid a direct hit from B-52 bombers dropping 30-ton loads of high explosive in the area. The tunnels were often rigged with explosive booby traps or punji stake pits.

At the end of tour we were taken to a shooting range where one could try at firing AK47, RPD Machine Gun, Recoilless Rifles and Rocket Launcher. But it was very costly, the minimum being one dollar for one bullet of AK47.

In the evening, I went with the same group for night-market located at a walking distance. It was full of food stalls offering a range of spring rolls, frog legs, mint chicken, pork chops, ducks, seafood, salad and coconut flan with caramel.

However, being a Muslim, I touched only fish items.

Next day, I booked a tour for Mekong Delta paying $8. The van picked me up at 6:30 a.m. from my hotel and headed south. It was monsoon season, a green carpet stretched to far off directions. On the both side of the road there were paddy fields – often sprinkled with old graveyards or scattered graves. The guide told me that in rural Vietnam, it was customary to bury the deads in their ancestral paddy fields. The tomb-stones were not facing a particular direction. It seemed that a monk or a holy man determined which way a particular grave would lie.

On arriving River Town, Cai Be, all shifted to a motorized boat for exploring floating markets and adjoining small villages stuffed with orchards, fruit plantations and honey bee farms.

Originating from Tibet and flowing through Myanmar, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, the mighty Mekong River enters Vietnam for its 120 miles course. It gets divide into nine rivers which form Mekong Delta, also known as 9-Dragon River.

There was a vast network of channels and canals and all transportation was by boat. It was a fascinating experience to visit floating markets and restaurants. There were small units making coconut candies, peanut cakes and exotic fruit juices. All villages were connected by dirt paths, narrow sidewalks and wooden bridges. A free lunch was included in the tour package consisting of seafood, fresh fruits and vegetable.

After a heavy lunch, I looked for a place to get siesta, the afternoon nap. I found a hammock dangling in an orchard and got into it straightening my back with some efforts. With the greenery below and chirping birds above, it was a dream come true. As a farewell, we were treated by some classical singers which charmed every one.

At the end, a slow boat, rowed by a stout lady, took us, in groups of four, through the shallow water. We sailed under the shade of the towering trees and bushes. Many village children greeted us or made funny faces. Some farmers invited us to have tea with them. But we moved on till we reached the main river and got into our ferry for a return journey.

On my third day, I had a long walk in the city. Anyone who moves around would be amazed to see a streak of motor-cycles and scooters. Their revving and horn tooting was ear-deafening. While moving I heard frequently, “want moto”. Instead of motor-cars, motor-bikes were being used as taxis. These were quite cheap and generally safe. All riders wore helmets even if someone had perched his four school-going kids on the same auto.

Ho Chi Minh was the largest city formally known as Saigon. People wore western clothes rather than traditional silk dresses. The buzzing of vehicles were merging with the shouts of street hawkers selling a variety of items like drinks, soup, salads, caps, shoes etc. For quite some time, I moved directionless till I noticed a street named Le Loi. I knew this street ran through the heart of the city passing by Opera Houses, City Halls and the famous Cho Ben Thanh Market.

Just by chance, I came across the famous cathedral towering high. This redbrick structure with its twin towers was a well-known feature of the city. I kept on moving, occasionally sipping ice-cold Coke or 7-up till I wandered into Backpackers Area thriving with budget hotels, travel companies, bars and restaurants,

Apart from motor-bikes, another characteristic of the city was street foods. There were endless options. Pho is a national dish. Basically a noodle soup, it is available all the time. Other popular dishes are: spring rolls, sticky rice cakes, dipping sauce, coconut custard, banana cake, coffee and lemon soda.

I passed through lovely parks clogged with walkers and joggers. Young couples, many in traditional wedding dresses moved around with a photographer to have their pictures taken at as many spots as possible unbelievingly reaching 300.

It was getting dark. I took an alternate route and incidentally ended up by the riverside which was quite close to my hotel. It has magnificant ships serving as floating restuarants. The entry was around one dollars with a la Carte Dinner Entrees.

My stay would have been very pleasant but for a financial loss. I had some money and to safeguard it, I approached the hotel manager. She handed over to me a plastic bag and I placed my passport, credit cards and dollars in it. It was wrapped with a plastic tape where I and the manager signed. Next morning, I retrieved the bag, unsealed it and took out my belongings. In my own room, I checked all and found two hundred dollars short. It appeared that the manager made a cut on one side of the bag, fished out the envelope containing money, whisked away two 100-dollar notes and glued the bag. I complained to her but she refused to listen. I have been travelling for 40 years, been to more than 70 countries but never experienced such a heist. (Hotel address: Lucky Hotel, No.5 Ton That Thiep Street, Ben Nghe Ward, Distt 1, HCMC - phone 84 - 8 -821-4952)

With heavy heart, I boarded a night bus on the evening of 1^stJuly and headed for Nha Trang, some 321 kilometers away. The bus fare was $10 with pick up facilities. This would be covered in the next part.