Hinglaj Yatra
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“Welcome to the most sacred temple built by nature over 200,000 years ago,” said the pujari (the priest) when we entered the holy place nestled in the colorful mineral-caked overhanging cliff of an old river. At the same time, we heard drum-beats & bhajan (devotional song). The sound echoed off the surrounding peaks giving supernatural effects. The pujari recited a mantra, “Oh Hingula Devi, she who holds nectar in her self and is power incarnate. She who is one with Lord Shiva, to her we pay our respects and make this offering (swaha)"
Later, he explained that Hinglaj is one of the holiest shakti peeth (sites of cosmic power) of Hinduism. To calm down an entranced Lord Shiva, Lord Vishnu is believed to have carved Sati’s body into dozens of pieces and spread them across the South Asia. Mythology states that the head landed at Hinglaj. Lord Ram had meditated here.
How to reach Hinglaj
A few hours before, a van had dropped me at Hingol River Bridge. I looked around and found a make-shift structure of bamboo and grass serving as a cafe–cum-tuck shop. There were two persons inside and I asked them about location of the Coast Guard Post. “This is the post and I’m Lance Naik Waheed waiting for you,” said one in a funny mood. It was obvious that my son, a senior officer in the Pak Army, had already arranged for my stay and transport.
I followed Waheed to a small rest house. There were many others, some in uniform and some in national dress, salwar & kameez. All extended me the traditional greetings – a firm handshake and a mild hug. A hot cup of tea with biscuits was placed before me. This proved a tonic for my weary bones. In the meanwhile, Waheed had warmed up his motor-bike and asked me to take the backseat. It was like “out of the frying pan into the fire” after a long ride I had in the van with cramped seats. But I had no choice, the alternative was to hire from Karachi a four-wheeler coughing over Rs.20,000 (US$ 250). I do not want to blow away that much money for a day tour in my own country. I am not a bank robber or a gun-runner or counterfeiter. I have modest means and want to see as much of the world as I can before age and health betray me.
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- Wildlife of Pakistan: Hingol National Park
Approximately 190 km from Karachi, the park contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation. It has large tracts covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi-desert. It has rare birds and wildlife.
Among the mud valcanoes
We took a side road flanked by craggy sandstone peaks. Waheed told me that this was part of Hingol National Parkand drew my attention to signposts indicating presence of crocodiles, leopard and ibex etc. Waheed had a lot of experience of carrying passengers on his motorcycle and constantly advised me to sit astride directly behind him using the foot-pegs all the time. He warned me well in time to hold his waist or shoulders before approaching a curve or a bump. Even then, it was a very uncomfortable.The bike jumped many a times due to uneven patches on the road & I had to balance myself after surviving the jolt.
None-the-less, the surrounding scenery was mesmerizing. There were beautiful cone-formations along the way besides a giant monolith looking like a flat wall. A ride amidst towering rocks with magnificent patterns was most fascinating. These rocks or mud mountains were eroded by wind and water forming a unique appearance with layers of strata. At one place, I asked Waheed to stop for a while. I wanted to breathe fresh air and enjoy the tranquil surroundings except for chirping of birds and an occasional call of a partridge. Turtles, lizard and chameleon were in abundance. Besides, one can easily spot pelican, eagles, vultures and finches.
After about six kilometers, we crossed the dried up river and continued on the other side in same the same direction. There were signboards and arrows directing towards the temple. Moreover, there were hardly any crisscrossing roads or paths and one cannot get lost even if someone was desperate enough to try it.
Initial sight of the temple
Parking our bike, we set on foot on a narrow & slippery mountain path. We were walking deep into the hills with towering mountains looming over the track. A river ambled its way in the bottom of the gorge And quite suddenly, along a steep cliff, the temple was in view. The beige tones of the park turned into flashes of colours: orange, yellow and ember. These were strips of cloth fluttering in the breeze. These were tied by the pilgrims who visit the site in large number to pay homage to the Devi.
I stopped for a moment to enjoy the awe and wonder created by the delightful setting. Walls of the gorge were rising to several hundred feet. Below was a river with a trickle of water. The area was lush green with shrubs & trees. I spotted a white-cheeked bulbul singing in praise of God. Overhead, a lone eagle was hovering with its broad wings. Since it was getting late, Waheed asked me to move on and I came out of the reverie. A few steps ahead was the shrine, marked in red colors with sun and the moon. It is believed that Lord Ram created this mark with the strike of his arrow after his penance ended.
The shrine
In a moment, we entered the shrine covered by castle like walls. At first site, it was disappointing. There no were imposing sculpture, no idol to speak of. But it was a great theatre, sculpted by nature with wind and water in a narrow canyon. It contained the holy relics covered by red clothes and vermilion. The name Hinglaj itself means Reddish, the colour of sindur or blood.
A Hindu family was visiting the temple at the same time. The women were in colorful clothes, with bindi on their foreheads and a yellow band tied around their heads. They were mediating with their hands raised and eyes closed. Some more devotees were praying in silence with folded hands and bare feet, reading hymns and religious scripts.
The pujari entertained us with tea & sweetmeats and handed over a coconut to each of us as a parting gift. We were moved by his prayer for our safety and peace in the country.
Video at the time of Festival in April 2009
Where there is a will, there is a way
The temple is about 250 km from Karachi. One can travel to Aghor River Bridge, on the Mekran Coastal Highway, by own car or by public transport (air-conditioned buses or van). Necessary information can be obtained from Mr. Veera Mal Dewani (0092-21-2624485), House No.100 Swami Narain temple estate, M.A Jinnah Road, Karachi, Pakistan.
On the roadside, just before the Aghor Bridge, there is a café operated by a friendly owner, Jeeva. Talk for a while to him to obtain latest information and the best way to go there depending whether you are solo or with a party.
The temple is about 15 km away connected by a metaled road. One can go by walking or hitch-hiking. The area is perfectly safe for a lone traveler. One can find some means of transport like motor bike from a nearby village, Aghor . But if someone starts on the road to Hinglaj, one can find some help in the village along the road.
To reach Aghor, buses are available at Inter-City Bus Terminal, Yusuf Goth, Baldia Town, Karachi (9221-5413837-8, 0322-2319855, 0313-2266992). The fare is Rs.400 one way. One can go by van with the same fare. It leaves from Kalari, Shah Abdul Latif Bhati Road, Juma Mosque, Karachi, Pakistan.
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Thanks Michael for your comments. I pray for your long life and for your visiting this religious place.
Sounds like a beautiful journey in itself to visit a magical site. Thank you for sharing. :)
Thanks @Dame Scribe for your comments.
AMAZING JOURNEY ! THANK YOU FOR SHARING SIR !
Thanks Kashan for visiting my hub.
Great write-up. Enjoyed this virtual trip.
Thanks Amir for your comments.
Sir, Thanks alot for Sharing
Dear Sir,
Your YATRA was awesome and adventurous as usual, in fact the readers of your HUB could have also realized that.
I simply love what ever you write...
Waiting for more!
Regards,
Rufi Shahzada
thank you, i will go there in winter
Pakistan is a country filled with many historical and beautiful sites, much more than I ever realized. Thank you for a glimpse of this wonderous country. And thank you for sharing all the wonders with me and others.
Dear Hafeez:
Thank you for sharing your blessed yatra. I live in USA and went to Hingol in 2006 with Mr. Hamid Omar with his family and friends from the Offroaders club. I came across their website http://offroadpakistan.com/ and saw the pictures and asked them guidance on how to go there and they were so gracioaus as to escort me in 10 cars and total of 30 people and then do the overnight camping at the beutiful Hingol (as imprtant as Ganges river). They are bunch of very bright, rugged buch of folks who are loving, caring, very respectful of people, places and the Mother Nature. It was my most meomorable yatra with blessings from my Guru and love of these folks.
Your write-up shows the same care, respect and love that these folks showed and very much unlike what I saw in http://www.globalpost.com/dispatch/pakistan/100219
I thank you for your beuatiful write-up and pictures. I am positive that India and Pakistan will resolve their issues peacefully in few years and can build a economic powerhouse with peace and prosperity for all of the people. That is my prayer to Mata Hinglaj.
I also pray that the pristine environment of the Mata Hinglaj temple and the Hingol National Park will be maintained vs. being commercialized as the tourism and pilgrimage increases. Very delicate balance to maintian. I hope that people like you and Offroaders will help maintain the balance.
May Mata Hinglaj blessings be on you.
Jay Shah
Thanks Jay Shah for your valued comments. I have a burning desire to see India but unfortunately there is no tourist visa. Long time back, I went to Delhi, on an official tour, for 15 days and that too remained confined to the limits of Delhi. I could not go to a day trip for Agra.
Maybe in my lifetime, I get an other opportunity to visit neighbouring India as I have seen most parts of the world.
Thanks for sharing your feelings.
Dear Mr. Hafeezrm, I'm very impressed by yr writing. We are looking for a co-writer for the Eng. version of our book project "the Indus". Will be on a photograph trip in Pak from 30.Apr. - 25. May starting from Karachi - Skardu. Wld be nice if we hv a chance to meet. Pls contact me asap. xinyang@ridgehouse.cn I will send you the details. Thanks.
Thanks Xinyang Wang for your valued comments. I have sent you an email and would love to meet you whenever you are in Karachi.
visit our website for more infomaction About hinglaj yatra
www.hinduofuniverse.com
Dear Hafeezbhai,
I really enjoyed reading about your Yatra to Hinglaj, you have really have a great talent of writing and made me feel as if I was with you on the Yatra, I really hope one day I may be able to come to Pakistan and complete this yatra, My Ancestors are big Followers of the Devi and all our works are undertaken with Her in mind and her bBessings, it really gladdens my heart that even though there is a lot of strife around the Lands Of my Forefathers, there are still people like you burning the deepa of Light for Peace,Friendship and Love,
Kind Regards,
Mukesh
Dear Mukesh Bhai,
Thanks for the comments. If you need any information, please contact me. Like you, I have burning desire to go to India for a care free travel like I do in USA and Europe. Maybe in my life time there is a tourist visa and then I would love to move around.
Dear Hafeezbhai,
I pray that your wish to travel to India is fulfilled in your lifetime and visit sites that are dear to your heart...what in reality is also your country as well as mine, I was born in Uganda and grew up in London , for me Pakistan is undiscovered beauty in the Sub-Continent and too many people focus too much on the negative side of Pakistan...and hopefully in the very near future all this will become a thing of past, so people like me can start enjoying the beauty and the majesty of what is in fact the Lands Of All Our Forefathers and hopefully making life long friendship with people like you, I will be asking for some more information from your good self regarding this very Holy Shrine Hinglaj
Kind Regards,
Mukesh
Dear Mukesh Bhai,
Thanks for your feelings. You are most welcome to ask for any information.
Hi
Hafeez Bhai
I really enjoyed your Hinglaj Yatra.
Thank you very much for the great information
Girish
Thanks Girish Bahi for your comments.
thanks hafeez bhai for the description.
Please help me about information on how to travel to Hingol from Delhi.
I am from nepal and with your writing i came to know about the hinglaj temple yatra information . Though pakistan is a islamic country but that temple is sacred for hindus of shakti sect like kamakhya temple in assam india . I would suggest pakistan government arrange some route and promote yatra travel from india , nepal and lot of people will go there for darshan .
Thanks Kumar and Bikash for visiting my page.
Dear Kumar,
Travel in Pakistan to Hingol is no problem. The real problem is getting a visa. Once you have, you can travel from Delhi to Karachi by train and you can continue your journy by bus. No problem.
I am visiting this page the second time and enjoyed every bit of it. I also agree with one of the replies above that you have maintained a good sense of respect, which makes your travelogue more valuable. Thanks for sharing Hafeez Sb :)
Muzzammil (VT)
Thanks for your comments Muzzammil Bhai.
I wish I could visit Hingol and the temple.
You have describe the journey beautifully.
Regards
listing first time about this yatra.
haffezrm, you are good content writer about yatra.
keep going on
Revered Sir,
Salam Alecum.I'm very happy to read your travel story.Its informative as well as sympathetic.I'm praying Mataji to take me once to Her sacred shrine for a sanctifying darshan. I'm praying Her to bless a peaceful atmosphere to the govts & people of these two countris as soon as possible so that you can travel Juma Masjid, Ajmer Dargha,Khwaza Garib nawaz etc.The political division on the name of religion has called too much devastations to these two countries.Whenever I think of our Undivided Motherland before 1947,eyes become full of tears.We could have been the Strongest & Most Respected Country in the world!!Lets pray for peace everywhere. Be born again & again in this Sweet Motherland & MEDITATE AND PREACH FOR PEACE.MATAJI BLESS YOU A LONG HEALTHY LIFE TO TRAVEL INDIA
Thanks Dr. Sanat Kumar Dash for your valuable comments. I have toured whole the world but in neighbouring India I could get visa only for 15 days and that too restricted to Delhi. It was way back in mid nineties. During my life time where not much time is left, I do not see any chance. However, I believe in miracles and these do happen.
Revered Sir,
Thanks for your response.Hingulaji(Hinglaj)is our local deity.While visiting Her Almighty regular here, I am feeling a great urge to visit Her original cave shrine in the Makran hills.But I will like to stay there for 3/4 days near the shrine within one or half a kilometre distance,so that I can sit in the shrine or nearby for meditation to imbibe the spiritual vibration of The Divine Mother. As an experienced sympathetic native you please clarify me- can I stay there for 3/4 days? Where are the nearest resting & fooding facilities? I'm very much down to earth.I can sleep on floor.I can reach Karachi by Samjhouta Express or by flight if possible.Karachi to Aghor bridge you have cleared.I am but confused at last. The shrine is 15 km away from Aghor bridge- right? You covered 6km by moterbike. Then the rest 9 km you had to walk? Please clear.Waheed took you. What I can do? Please guide me so that I wont have to face much more difficulties when I will go in near future.
Dear Dr. Sanat Kumar Dash,
Staying is no problem except in April on the eve of Annual Yatra
There is a rest house and cafeteria nearby.
I traveled on bike in stages. The temple is 15 km away. The road is metalled all the way, no walking involved if one has a vehicle.
I suggest you contact the following associations, based at Karachi, Pakistan for complete information.
www.hinduofuniverse.com
REVERED SIR,
Thank you so much for your kind information.This help of your goodness will also be a part of my HINGLAJ YATRA travelogue.
Thanks Dr. Kumar. If you come to Karachi, contact me and we shall have a lunch together.
Revered Sir,
Thank You so much for such early lunch invitation. I shall contact You when I book my ticket for Karachi & shall have a lunch with You.I have to but wait till The Divine Mother decides me to visit Her.
Revered Sir
Can you please tell me Why muslim people call Hinglaj Mataji as 'BIBI NANI' ? Is there any story or legend behind this ? If possible please solve this query.
During my visit, I saw many signboards of “Nani Mander” pointing out to Hinglaj Temple. I asked around and was told that that some Muslims treat it as pious a place and call it as ‘Astana of Nani Peer’.
These Muslims either belonged to some Sufi Sect or Zikri faction or Bughti Tribes. Shah Abdul Latif Bhattai, a great Sufi poet, praised Mata in his Sindhi poem.
Among Muslim devotees, she is popular as Lal Cholewali Mai and Nani or Bibi Hinglaj. They regard it as shrine of “Bibi Nani Ma”. Interestingly, the holy place is maintained by Jagari Muslim community.
Another version is that this is place of Babylonian Goddess, known as Nanaia, whose Semitic name is "Anhita. Some say that Bibi Nani is buried here as well as at a faraway place near Sibi Town of Pakistan near Bolan Pass.
I am not a research scholar. Rather I am a traveler having seen a large part of the world in sweeping tours.
You may like to read my travel tale which contains a brief description of a Sufi, Madhu Lal Hussain. (Madhu Lal was his Hindu friend whose name is placed before his name and both are buried side by side.). The link is http://hubpages.com/hub/Lahore-the-heart-of-Pakist
You may like to contact me though hubpages.
I am curious to know more about you.
Revered Sir
As per your guidence I studied about The Great Sufi Saint Shah Abdul Latif Bhattai.But your hub page http://hubpages.com/hub/Lahore-the-heart-of-Pakist is shown to be expired. Still I am anxious to follow your page. And about me ! Pir Paigambar Pharistonka ek garib noukar hun main.I have no broadband here in a remote Indian village encircled by forest;I am doing net through cellphone. So video chat can only be possible when I would be in capital with your availability on net. But You may write me direct to this id krsnaheals@gmail.com. I will but must have a video chat with you before I fly to Karachi for the Holy Darshan.
Hello This is devang from mumbai i would like to visit hinglaj temple can u please help me how to reach there from mumbai what i will need to reach there
Dear Devang,
Please contact the following web-sites for uptodate information.
www.hinduofuniverse.com
hum bahot khush huye hamare taqdir me kab Hinglaj maa ki yatra hogi? Bharat-Pakistan govt. achha mahol banaye to yatra kar sake.......................Thanks.................
how to say gratitude to mr.Hafeezrm for such anice description on Maha Bheema lochana Marut Devi Sri Hingalaj Mata. May all the blessing may you live long and with Prosperity....Thanks a lot.
Dear Mr.Hafeezrm will you please describe story of King Sibi and the place Sibi for me?
Dear Mr.Hafeezrm will you please describe story of King Sibi and the place Sibi for me?
Thanks Kerising M. Jadav for your comments. I love to visit India any time but this visa comes my way.
There is no visa for tourists. In 1995, I went to India for a study on SAARC Bank but was asked to remain in Delhi. I could not go to see Taj Mahal.
I am an old man. This wish for visiting India would be buried with me.
Dear Pramod,
Thanks for your email. I would study King Sibi and place Sibi in future.
I want to go Hinglaj temple in pakistan so pls. guide me.
How many Expense in hinglaj yatra & how many days for this yatra. and how many days in this yatra i can go pakistan by road or by train ?
Pls. guide me..................
Dear Bhavesh Mehta,
Once you reach Karachi, you may take a bus to Aghore River Bridge from where the temple is hardly 15 km away. One can walk, go by bike or taxi. If you walk, you have to stay for overnight. So minimum two days are required for Yatra. Please go through my article again and you would find all details for budget-class travelers.
Pakistan is not expensive and prices are more and less the same as in India in foods, lodging and traveling.
While preparing an article on MAA HINGULA YATRA of talcher in orissa,I came across yr nice article on hinglaj yatra,became damnly impressed.I feel lively. Reading yatra commentary makes one to feel as if leading a group on the way to hinglaj and visiting NANI BIBIor HINGLAJ.The similarities of both the temple shrine and goddesses symbolises the unity and integrity of such a vast continent.I hope, one day this will unite INDIA &PAKISTAN...KHUDA HAFIZ.
Thanks for your comments. You seem very sincere in religious coherence and harmony in Indo-Pak subcontinent.
But I disagree with your desire to get the two countries united rather pray for a peaceful co-existence and mutual respect among all the countries in South Asia.
dear sir me hinglag mata ke darshan ko jana chat ahu plz .......muzhe yaha ki puri detail de
Enough information already given. You would required visa, fare to Karachi plus Rs.2000 for all and sundries.
Thanks Naresh Kumar for a useful link.
sir, i want to visit the hinlaj yatra, so what is the procedure and when the journey start and who will conduct the tour. please say about these. thanking you.
Spaul1995@rediffmail.com
T appreciate your program. First take a visa and reach Karachi. Meanwhile, contact:
www.hinduofuniverse.com
Dear Haseez bhai,
even i from mumbai i wish i could lso do darshan.. @ nani mandir..
I wish to see Goa. Let us hope visa is relaxed in our life time and we shall be able to move around.
michael schmidt 2 years ago
What a beautiful site! And yet I've never heard of it. I hope that in future years, Pakistan will develop a robust tourism industry. It certainly has the requisites: beautiful landscapes, great art and culture, and friendly people. However, while it's fun to read of Hafeez hanging onto a motorbike for dear old life, it will need to develop better access before it's ready for the masses. Hope I live long enough to see that day!